The Topography of Breasts

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Category : Bra Fitting

I am the queen of metaphors, and to cheer us all up on this snowy day I thought I would share one of my favourites.

Women’s breasts come in so many different shapes as well as sizes, and understanding them can go a long way to help fit bras properly. When I am training a staff member or a new store owner, I often invoke mountains and hills to describe breast shapes. While this may be a fairly commonplace comparison, I have dissected it more then most.

Let me take you on a summer stroll, or a mountain hike if you prefer…

Some mountains you climb for the challenge. They have a steep incline, and once you reach the top there isn’t a lot of room for gatherings! Similarly, most women’s breasts grow out of smaller portions of their bodies and come to a smaller area at the tip.

On the other hand, some breasts have a more gentle incline and a greater plateau at the top. Perfect for picnics – you can take a easy stroll up there and then spread out your blanket with a group of friends. One of my staff members loves it when I describe her breasts like this – she says it makes them sound friendly.

Contrary to what you might expect, both these breast shapes can fit exactly the same bra size. Both hills can have the same mass overall but a very different shape. The woman whose breasts are shaped more like the steep mountain may not always be able to wear the same bra as the woman who has the wider breasts.

Just as a mountain climber needs to accurately assess the terrain, so the bra fitter must have an understanding of different breast shapes to select the best bra possible.

Now Magazine Store of the Week in their Love and Sex guide

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Category : Merchandise, Sales and Specials

Buying a bra for a loved one

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Category : Bra Fitting

Occasionally a male customer will breeze into our store, looking for a gift for a special someone. As he takes in the variety of bras – and realizes the variety of sizes we carry – he’ll grow increasingly bewildered. Not to worry if you’re one of those gentlemen. Like a first bra fitting, the experience doesn’t have to be painful!

A bra can be a perfect gift because of what you are really giving:

You are giving beauty; it says ‘I treasure you and I think you are beautiful and I think you will look beautiful in this.’

You are giving comfort; a well-fit bra can be so comfortable, it says ‘I care about your content and I want to make sure you are.’

You are giving practicality because she will wear it all the time; it says ‘I am considerate and I think about your needs.’

You are giving quality because you have done your research and found a quality bra lasts longer and make her look better; it says ‘You are worth it.’

No matter where you are picking up a gift of a bosom up-lift, here are some helpful hints to get the perfect fit.

First come armed with knowledge. Bras come in over 150 different sizes (at Tryst we carry 28-52 backs AA-K cups) so saying “she is like your size!” is not very useful. A good way to find out without asking her is to peek in your sweetheart’s underwear drawer. Write down a few sizes and what the brands are, since different companies have slightly different size scales. But keep in mind: since so many women out there are wearing the wrong size, if she’s never had a fitting, chances are she’ll need one first. Our trained fitters may point out to you the illusions behind mainstream sizes like those blasted 34B and and 36C.

In that case a gift certificate may be the best way to insure she gets the perfect fit. Make sure the store you go to carrys a large selection of sizes and has expert fitters. If you buy a bra for a woman who you think is a D from a store that only carries up to a D and she is actually an E you haven’t helped her resolve the problem of uncomfortable wires and saggy breasts.

Many stores will also keep records of their customers so if she is a regular customer of a certain store they may even have an idea of a bra that would suit her perfectly or maybe even a new colour of her old favourite. She may have even had the foresight to make a wish list and tell them what she would like. If so they can tell you – you lucky guy – your gift giving just got so easy and you still get to be the hero!

Last of all make sure you understand the return policy of the store.

Why Most Stores Don’t Cater To You

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Category : Bra Fitting

Once in a while, a customer asks me what size she’ll be in another store. I tell her the size I fitted her in is the size she should be in any store (give or take slight differences in brands and styles). “But,” she continues, “other stores don’t carry these sizes”.  The truth of the matter is — if another store doesn’t carry your size, it doesn’t carry your size.

We tell our customers 50% of people are actually D cups or bigger. This can be a shocking realization when you consider that many stores don’t carry anything bigger than a double D.  So the question is: why do stores which do a huge number of sales carry only a small percentage of women’s actual bra sizes?

Look at it this way:

Let’s say a woman wants to open a restaurant in a small town, but first she has to decide what type of food to serve. So she surveys some people who live in the town, asking them what they would like to try. Ten percent say Thai, 10% choose Jerk, 10% want hamburgers, 5% demand Chinese and a whopping 50% answer Italian. The rest have other culinary tastes.

At this point, it would be foolish to open a restaurant serving all these different foods. Our restauranteur would have to hire different chefs for every cuisine, stock a huge amount of food and be left with a vastly confusing menu.

The easy thing to do would to be open a restaurant that serves just Italian, since this is the preference of 50% of those surveyed. The other 50% would end up eating there anyway because:

1. They’ll go with the friends who like Italian;

2. They may not even know there are other delicious choices; and

3. They don’t have any other options.

How does this relate to bra shopping?

What the restaurant owner does is exactly what most bra stores do –- they carry only a few sizes (let’s say 25 or so) because most lingerie stores don’t want a huge amount of stock. And, they would have to train  staff to fit all these sizes — a process that takes us about three months. So in most bra shops those women who don’t fit the standard mould just wear the wrong size and suffer. They either don’t know any better from never having a proper fitting, or they know there could be something better, but they don’t know where to find it.

In our store (and some other lingerie stores that do fittings), we stock over 150 sizes because that is why we are here -– to make sure you get the perfect bra for you. We carry sizes from 28 to 52 backs and AA to K cups.

It may not be the easy thing to do, but those who’ve experienced a proper fitting may not think it’s such a foolish thing after all!

What’s in a Colour

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Category : Bra Facts and Care

Last week, when women were posting their bra colours as their status on Facebook (it was a Breast Cancer Awareness exercise), my friends in the lingerie business and I were trying to guess what bras our friends were wearing. I wasn’t surprised to see how many people were posting black. After all, we sell piles of it. But my friends and I in the industry were posting much more exciting colours.

When purchasing a bra, colour is definitely a decision to ponder.

Under White or Light Coloured Clothing: It is best to wear a bra close (or a little darker) to your skin colour if you don’t want your bra to show. Underneath a white top, the colour off a white bra shows a stark contrast against your skin. If you want the bra to show, by all means wear a white bra but make sure it is a nice white bra – after all, people will be able to see it and should look good. In the case of light-coloured clothing, the same rules apply if the clothing is so light the bra will show through. But if you don’t have to wear a nude bra, you can mix it up with many different light-coloured bras that won’t show through.

Under Black or Dark Clothing: It is best to wear a dark bra under your dark clothing as your clothing can discolour a light bra and make it look dingy over time. Also, sometimes even though a shirt is dark you still may be able to see through it so the contrast of a light bra against your skin will show. This could mean a black bra but you may be able to choose an interesting deep tone: like a plum, wine-red, inky blue or teal with purple flowers.

Under Clothing Where the Bra Will Show: If you are wearing a sheer top where your bra will show through or a top where the straps of the bra shows, then your bra definitely becomes an accessory to the outfit. You have two choices – you can wear a bra that is the same colour as the garment or you can have fun and add some colour. You can get different feels from a top simply by changing the bra if the bra is going to show. This may be too daring for many people – but hey, we are talking about a person who already bought the sheer top.

The bottom line is we have many more options then black and nude. So once you have your basics covered – live it up and mix it up!

The Slip of the Strap

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Category : Bra Fitting

Every week, my friends and I host a Spanish club. As we sit around talking about conjugation, sometimes the conversation wanders. This week, my friend asked me if I could take in the straps on her bra because they were always slipping off her shoulders. I suspected the real problem was that the bra was too loose in the back. When she took off her shirt, my suspicion was confirmed. Her bra was too loose in the back.

This is actually the number one reason why people’s straps slip off their shoulders. When the back of a bra is too loose, our breasts (even ones that are not so heavy) pull it down in the front and as a result the back rides up in the back. Now the straps have nothing to anchor them to the shoulder and they slip off. You might think tightening the straps even more would help – but that just makes an already too-loose bra band ride up higher.

There are other reasons why people experience the dilemma of slipping straps. Some women have narrow or sloping shoulders. In this case, it’s best for her to be fitted in a bra where the straps are closer to the middle of the front and/or back of the bra, rather than a bra where the straps are already closer to the shoulders on even broad shouldered women.

Demi or Balconette bras by nature have straps closer to the shoulder, and therefore should be avoided by these women. You can buy contraptions designed to hold your straps together to the back of your bra. There are also cushions that fit under the straps, which will add friction and prevent the strap from slipping.

It is still best to make sure you get properly fitted in the end, as most women who experience the slipping straps are wearing the wrong size.

New Year’s Resolutions

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Category : Bra Facts and Care

Two days to a new decade to go…and my staff member, Olivia and I have been talking about New Year’s resolutions.

We’re both guilty of not washing our bras every time we wear them. Honestly, I wash my bras almost every time I wear them but there is the rare occasion when I really want to wear a certain unwashed bra. We give customers proper care instructions all the time, to greatly lengthen the life of their bras. But then some of them look horrified at the prospect of having to do mounds and mounds of laundry. I tell them this is the ideal they should be shooting for and I really hope they take the warning to heart.

I would love to do the experiment of having two identical bras worn an equal amount of time – one which I wash frequently and one which I sometimes wash. But I cannot as a true lover of my lingerie submit one greatly loved bra to the torture of having my body oils (no matter how scentless or invisible they may be) not being rinsed out before more are ground in.

Luckily, I have had unknowing customers help me with this experiment for years. I have had the good luck to see a bra which has been washed frequently by one customer and then to see the exact same bra’s cleansing needs neglected by another. And the results are over and over again the same. The one that was washed frequently looked much newer than the bra that was not often washed. In fact in most cases I have a good idea of the amount of washes a bra has missed by how new (or un-new) it looks.

Of course, it is easier to wash a bra frequently if you have a collection of them to sustain you until laundry day, and the more bras you have the less one bra is being worn. But knowing this, I have even had customers who told me their still-new looking bra is a year old and is the only bra they wear because all their past bras haven’t done them the justice their new Tryst bra is doing. Over and over again, my faith in the idea that to keep your bras new you should wash them frequently is re-affirmed.

Which brings us back to Olivia and my New Year’s resolutions. I am going to stop skipping washes and Olivia is going to get out her wash basin more often.

Consider our 2010 goal as one of your own. After all, what’s one more resolution? It might even be the easiest one to accomplish in the long run!

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Category : Sales and Specials

HappyNewYearSALE

Why Bras Cost So Much

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Category : Bra Facts and Care

I just got a phone call from a woman who said she is very busty. She said she was recommended by a friend to come to this store for a fitting. I was shocked to hear it’s her first fitting. She told me she could never afford a good bra until now.

I said to her, “When you come in, I’ll explain to you why a good quality bra may be expensive but also why it’s actually better value and how it could save you money in the long run.”

Which brings me to my newest blog entry:

Why do bras cost so much?

On average, a well-fit, well-made bra will cost you $100. It’s not very different from a designer pair of jeans. Only, little do many know, there is much more to making a bra than those denims. To drive that point home, we counted the number of parts that make up a pair of our pants, and then did the same with the bras in our store.

Take a couture brand bra. There’s forty parts to it alone. Take a basic t-shirt bra at our Eglinton store. We counted 30 pieces. Take a simple strapless bra, and the 26 bits needed to put it together. Which goes to show you, the average quality bra could total anywhere between 25 to 40 components.

A pair of jeans? Only 20.

On the other hand, the components of a good bra have to be sewn and hand assembled individually. An expert bra seamstress will put together a well-made bra, versus something mass-produced down a conveyor belt. It’s important that each piece is made from top-notch materials. Unlike any type of clothing, bras help us fight gravity and the onset of age. Every seam, every segment, every piece of elastic, latch and clasp has to be able to withstand the weight of our breasts and not snap from the pressure.

Also, designing a new bra shape and style can take up to a year to develop. This includes testing prototypes on models to ensure a good fit and look. But it also means all of those 25 to 40 pieces are sewn on and hand-assembled meticulously. After all, there are two sides to every bra.

The whole process is not only thorough and lengthy, but it’s an influential factor in the retail markup of these bras as well. For those who watch Project Runway, you’ll recall competitions where clothes are made in a single afternoon. No offense to Evan Biddell, but a designer at Freya or Chantelle has a more painstaking project to do, for many more sizes in mind.

If you tally the brands we carry at Tryst, you’ll find a majority of them stock a wide range of sizes. Brands like Freya are available from C to JJ. Accommodating all those different sizes equates to producing more parts (‘grading’ is the industry term), and that involves more time, material costs, and labour. Whereas with a jeans collection, a company only has to stock five or six sizes.

So now we’ve come full circle. The price you pay for a great bra encompasses…

-         The costs of designing one for many sizes in mind;

-         Testing each cup style and shape

-         Putting in the time and labour to assemble them expertly; and

Providing the highest quality in the nuts & bolts that keep your breasts up and looking good!

How Goldilocks Found The Perfect Bra Back Size.

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Category : Bra Fitting

One of the things we teach our customers is how to tell if a back is snug enough. We’ve been conditioned to believe if an article of clothing is uncomfortable then it is best to make it looser.

This is often the opposite with bra back sizes. If a bra back is too loose then our breasts in the front pull it down, causing the back to ride up. Too loose, and the bra moves around, causing the wires to dig in on the sides and under the breasts.  Whereas when the back is nice and snug, it will stay put.

Women are always telling me they would like to wear a looser back size so they can avoid back fat. However the situation they are trying to cure will actually be made worse by a too-loose back. When the back rides up, it will now be just as tight but on an angle – because the circumference around our body is bigger if taken on an angle then straight across. Now the band digs into instead of lies flat against the body, and at a place – close to our armpits – where there’s more back fat than closer to our back.

Beware also:

Some bra fitters out there may be so afraid of putting you in a too-loose back size they will put you in a back size that is too tight instead. Seeing your dizzy reaction, they will insist the back will soon stretch out. Just remember the bra should be snug, not tight, and on the loosest or middle hook. Putting you in a bra that is too tight will not only cause you pain and maybe damage, it will also pre-maturely stretch out and ruin the bra (wires may even pop-out or break). This is great for those aforementioned insistent bra fitters because then you will have to buy more bras from them – and not so great for you!!

When we (as fitters) measure customers for the back size we want to be able to fit our fingers into the band without cutting off our circulation. If the bra feels loose on the loosest hook we can try it on the tightest hook. If it feels too tight on the tightest then a woman can buy the bra on the middle hook but if it feels great (nice and supportive without you turning blue) on the tightest then it is time to go for a tighter back.

So…to sum up our bra band theory for the tentative Goldilocks customer out there: not too loose, not too tight, but JUST right!